The birth of surf
Surfing history, contrary to what everyone thinks starts in Peru, during the pre-Inca period, under the Mochica culture. Indeed, drawings were found on pottery of this period, which showed men, in the ocean, on wooden planks and boats made of reeds called the “caballos de totora”. Thus surfing would be born truly on the northern coast of Peru.
However, surfing history, as most people know it, begins in the Pacific. James Cook was the first person to see a surfer at the Sandwich Islands (Hawaii). However, it was James King who was the first to report surfing in his logbook as he had seen in Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii.
However, surfing history really begins in Hawaii since the archipelago will be the first to broadcast this sport. In the 15th century, surfing was therefore a common practice among the people of the Hawaiian Islands. It allowed the tribal chiefs who challenged the sea to prove their power and superiority. They were surfing large surfboards, called Papa-he-nalu, which were cut from a tree trunk according to a very special ritual.
The Polynesians, meanwhile, measured themselves against each other during surfing duels, the winner was subsequently granted a better place in the tribe
Then, it was Duke Kahanamoku who made the sport reappear in 1900. He is a pioneer among the many emblematic figures of surfing history. The one we called “The Duke” is today considered as the father of modern surfing. Thanks to his character, and his style he had managed to make surfing popular.
Jack London has also helped make surfing popular, indeed thanks to these stories of adventure, he participated make surfing popular.
Finally, it is the youth who took over the surfing history. She appropriates the codes of surfing and makes of it a true art of living, model of a whole generation. The practice of surfing then, spreads in Australia and in the United States.